1992 Hilux or pickup electronic speed sensor wiring diagram? (1 Viewer)

[withoutremorse42]

My 92 Hilux has an electronic speedometer. When the driveshaft came loose it obliterated the pigtail that attaches to the sending unit on the trans. The wires are there, but the colors don't match up with what my Aussie Haynes manual shows. I'm looking for a pigtail locally, but even once I find one to install, I need to figure out the order the wires connect to the pigtail.

Anyone have help on this?

I believe it's the same as any 92 pickup with electronic speedo

 

[gnob]

think this is it

 

[withoutremorse42]

Thanks!!

 

[withoutremorse42]

I'm not an expert electrician so I apologize if this is a dumb question, but looking at that top diagram, would a cut blue wire from the speed sensor disrupt the tach as well as the speedo?

 

[gnob]

if its grounding out on the case.

 

[withoutremorse42]

Figured out the tach... the 3L engine I swapped in came from a Hiace without a tach.. the injection pump didn't have the sensor drilled or installed.

Still working on the speedo. New gauge, new sending unit, new pigtail, and it still doesn't work

 

[WristPin]

Any sending unit works the same as the next. You only have 3 wires. Power ground and signal. You can easily determine output from the truck by ign on, measure for power like 5V, then ground. The one with no output is signal. Mark the wires as such. Take the sensor & then use an ohm meter to find continuity at 2 wires. (Or terminals) are your power & ground the third is signal. If you hook it up it should work. If you hook up just the power and measure volts at signal wire from sender while using a chunk of metal over the sender to break the field you will see deflection on the meter. This will prove everything is working up to this point. Establish this first before condemning the gauge.

 

[withoutremorse42]

Any sending unit works the same as the next. You only have 3 wires. Power ground and signal. You can easily determine output from the truck by ign on, measure for power like 5V, then ground. The one with no output is signal. Mark the wires as such. Take the sensor & then use an ohm meter to find continuity at 2 wires. (Or terminals) are your power & ground the third is signal. If you hook it up it should work. If you hook up just the power and measure volts at signal wire from sender while using a chunk of metal over the sender to break the field you will see deflection on the meter. This will prove everything is working up to this point. Establish this first before condemning the gauge.

Awesome, very informative, appreciated.

When I swapped sending units I noticed the new one had a different number of teeth on the gear (assuming KM vs Miles). Since it's still not working my next step is to check continuity on the sending wire since power and ground are both good. I replaced the gauge cluster but dropped it just before install so that probably needs to be checked again as well

 

[WristPin]

Awesome, very informative, appreciated.

When I swapped sending units I noticed the new one had a different number of teeth on the gear (assuming KM vs Miles). Since it's still not working my next step is to check continuity on the sending wire since power and ground are both good. I replaced the gauge cluster but dropped it just before install so that probably needs to be checked again as well

The reluctor wheel to which you are referring may or may not be specific to kmh or mph. I wouldn’t think so, idk. It will make no difference in the signal output, even if it’s different timing. The main thing is establishing signal output. The gauges are fragile so good luck there