Bodh Gaya: Standing up from Ruins (Bihar, INDIA) — the Path Less Travelled
Why a travel blog should be titled- “Standing up from ruins?”
Why a travel blog should be titled- “Standing up from the ruins?”
Let me tell you a brief story of Bodh Gaya which you might have heard from the gentry, from the sentry, from guides and everyone else. The story is there in the ruins. We all know the history of India hanging in a fine balance of myth and reality. Some myths seem to be too magical to be real. The East India Company who which ruled India for almost two centuries should be credited for a few things. The team had recorded railways, Archaeological excavations and impartial reporting of incidents. The men of arts are dreamers. They lack funds but not the zeal, so one dreamer named Mr Alexander Cunningham in The 1880s tried resurrecting history. I am a lover of culture and arts. The life of Buddha has always dragged me to mountains, especially Himalayas. The journey cannot be complete without visiting the lands where a man called Siddhartha Gautama walked-Kushinagar, Lumbini, Sarnath and Bodh Gaya. There were two legendary men (Mahavira and Buddha) two and half thousand years ago who challenged the “status quo”, they challenged highly orthodox and casteist society prevailing in those times and made things simpler for commoners. Gautama himself propagated no “isms”… but taught the middle way where a man hinges and remains happy. So impactful was the thought an Emperor like Ashoka who massacred many in his conquests turned to the spiritual path….. (sorry, I could not find any close word to spiritual… because it arises from the root of spirits and Buddha himself never believed in spirits). Ashoka himself sent his children to Sri Lanka and other south Asian countries to propagate the Buddhist philosophy. Sanghamitra-daughter of Ashoka who became a nun, went to Sri Lanka with Bodhi tree and thus Sri Lanka imbibed Buddhism. Sri Lankan people always felt gratitude for India for the religion they accepted. They always come back to this place in reverence. The story is important. Sri Lankan’s contribution cannot be narrated in a blog but can be gauged from the fact they resurrected the ruins of Mahabodhi temple with the help of few British men who had a passion for history.Buddhism had been wiped out of multiple reasons. The re-establishment of Brahmanic orthodoxy, introducing Vishnu as larger deity in place of Indra-the rain God, the tall order of castes, the Huns who ruined the northern part, losing of patronage of Kings who went back to caste order (Varna system). This led to Mahants taking charge of Bodh Gaya temple, establishing Buddha as an avatar of Vishnu which dilapidated followers of Buddhism resented. The Mahabodhi temple was in charge of Mahants and during the period of British, it went to legal tangle for long. There was the destruction of many stupas for some reasons or the other. There remained a little trace of a culture left behind. Chinese traveller Huen Tsang works have great details of the city, including a monastery next to Mahabodhi temple. The monastery was later destroyed. I would end the story by saying Bodh Gaya is not complete by mentioning the name of Anagarika Dharmapala- a Sri Lankan, who used his resources, connects to resurrect the ruins. The Sri Lankan Mahabodhi Society just in front of Mahabodhi temple and have been welcoming guests of all countries. Burma, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and many other countries have contributed a great deal to infrastructure. The place gets more focus when Karma-pa and HH the Dalai Lama visit the town and teachings from NALANDA tradition are showered to the thousands of followers who flock small town. There are several mystical Tibetan monasteries which give a hint to Tibetan culture.
Travel:
The city can be reached by road, trains and air. There is an airport in Bodh Gaya with direct flights. If one comes by train, he can connect Inter-city trains which have a good frequency. The trains reach in 2:30 hours to 3:00 hours depending on whether they are express or superfast. From Gaya to Bodh Gaya, one needs to take Auto which can charge Rs.150–400/-. A good bargain will help you around Rs.200/-. There are local buses from Gaya to Bodh Gaya which I would not suggest as they leave very far away from the destination.
Gaya itself is an important destination for Hindus who come for “Shraad puja”. If one is going for Shraad puja, I would suggest to be careful and take proper references for local pundits before reaching Gaya. This part of India is economically backward, and business is scarce. The religious tours are the source of economy beside agriculture. Bodh Gaya is extremely hot between April and August. If one cannot endeavour temperatures of 40–45 degrees, one should not visit during these months. The season starts from September as temperatures get tapered by monsoon rains.
AIR:
Direct Flights to Bodh Gaya. Another way- Flight to Patna and then board train from Patna Railway Station. Patna- Gaya- Regular trains express and passenger take time in the range of 2.00–3:00 hours. Gaya to Bodh Gaya: You can take Auto.
TRAIN:
Few direct trains are available from Mumbai/ Delhi.
BUS:
Bus service also available from Patna and Gaya, but since roads are not well maintained, would not suggest.
FOOD:
The food is typically North Indian. There is no paucity of hotels which offer decent food. The food is in the range of Rs.200–350 per head in Air Conditioned restaurants near the Main temple complex. The road site stalls near the Chinese temple offer Thupka, Noodles which will satisfy the platter of pilgrims from China, Korea, Japan etc. Non-veg is also easily available at the locations. Bihar being non-alcoholic state, follow at least one Buddhist precept! If you want to enjoy Bihari delicacy of Litti-chokha, you can get at stalls in Bodh Gaya. (Try -Nirvana Veg Café, Tibetan Café. You can also enjoy Café Coffee Day and Barista)
SHOPPING:
There are many Tibetan shops which offer statues, amulets, figurines and flags which reflect Tibetan culture. You will find vendors selling peepul leaves with Buddha posters and that will be in the range from Rs.20–200, depending upon the bargaining with them. There are shops which sell granite, marble statues as well and you can surely visit a shop-Buddha Statue maker-near Surya Guest House. (Opp Jagadish Park). Handicrafts items, meditation cushions, Thangka paintings are available mostly from September to March. I had visited twice to Bodh Gaya and had purchased exquisite Thangka paintings from Ambedkar market area during winter. Most of the Tibetan vendors are from Dharmashala who come in season time to sell their merchandise.
Bodh Gaya is a holy place. Always keep shoes outside any temple.
Picture Blogs:
Mahabodhi Temple: View from Entrance
The temple has a rich history. British Alexander Cunningham and Sri Lankan- aristocracy turned monk-Anagarika Dharmapala resurrected the temple. The height of the temple is close to 180–200 ft. and is difficult to capture the beauty of temple in one camera frame. The main temple is no more commanded by the ‘matha’ which existed in the campus but Hindu deity ‘remains’ of Shiva Linga is still under Pancapandava temple. The statues if seen are nothing but statues of Buddha in different postures.
The temple wakes up at 5:00 am and hymns pierce the atmosphere with spirituality. “Buddham sharnam gachhami”. They allow cameras with a charge of Rs.100/- but mobile is strictly to be kept out in the hotel rooms or even at the entrance. The temple from the entry point. The pink structure has statues which were constructed by temple Mahants.
2: Stupas in Complex
Stupas inside the campus of the temple.
These stupas have been made beautifully made and the entire temple is surrounded by several such structures.
3: Scriptures on Stone
Several inscriptions like left are there on the left side of entrance. The inscriptions are written in Hindi, Tibetan and English.
These are from important texts from Pali and Sanskrit cannon. The one on the left is of “ dependent origination” which is one of the important sutras and basic foundation of Buddhist thought.
There are “ King of Concentration Sutra”, “ Sutra requested by Ananvatapata”, “ Udanavargatika “ etc. If you have read the texts or heard the teachings somewhere, you will appreciate the fact, that someone has taken effort to engrave and refresh while you circumvent the temple.
There are no prizes for guessing. This is the main statue inside the “griha” of the temple. I had seen many people including monks taking mobile secretly though the same is banned. There were some clicking selfies with Buddha. Believe me, friends, Buddha himself would have disliked selfies!
5: The Backside of Temple Grounds
At the back of the Bodhi temple, a Niranjana river flows, which swells up during the monsoon season. It is said, Lord Buddha crossed the river to the place of Bodhi tree, where he got enlightenment. He had thrown his dish in water to check if it sustains the current and he is actually a Buddha. The dish floated, and it gave immense strength after eating rice kheer from Sujata.
6: The Flower Bed
The picture of yellow in the stoic temple background just makes the things colourful. The gentlemen keep doing their jobs and keep Bodhi temple coloured with a natural fragrance.
7: Preparing for the Day :
Tibetan Monks at early morning preparing for morning prayers and rituals. The temple is surrounded by few Tibetan monasteries.
8: Figurines on the Temple :
The stupas on the temple. The left one is famous Buddhist philosopher. Guess who? Write to me.
9: Mucalinda Lake:
It is said that Lord Buddha spent the sixth week of enlightenment under the shade of Mucalinda tree near the lake. When Mara tried to disrupt the concentration of Lord, The Nagaraja entwined Buddha from head to toe so he could carry on with meditation. This story you can relate to Hindu deity. (Krishna and Kalia nag, Krishna at birth with Vasudeva)
10: Sri Lankan Tourists :
At any point of a year, you will find Sri Lankan tourists in the area. Emperor Ashoka’s daughter Sanghmitra went to Lanka as nun and introduced Buddha dharma. Sri Lankans out of reverence did a lot of service for Bodh Gaya.
11: The Tree of Enlightenment: Bodhi Tree
The tree of enlightenment. I mediated for some time (twice in two years) and did not reach the level which Buddha reached! (Sorry PJ)
The actual tree must have been felled before, the tree was replanted many times.
12: The Stupa with Tibetan scriptures :
A stupa at the Mahabodhi temple premises. The Blue colour adds colour to greyish background.
13:Boddhisatva Pigeon
A Boddhisatva Pigeon could not deter Buddha out of meditation!
This Theravada Buddhist Monk is in deep mediation.
15:Waiting:
A child waiting for selling lotuses for offering at the gate. Its 4:00 AM whether cold December or hot June, the kids at the gate wait for the customers. The eyes of the Boy says it all.
16: The Safe keepers:
The shoe houses keep the slippers and shoes in safe custody and you can deposit mobiles and valuables here. Mobiles are not allowed inside temple. Still Camera charges Rs.100/-
17: Sujata Stupa:
This is in reverence to Sujata who as per the different texts was from an affluent family which could be of the landlord or some stories tell cowherd’s daughter. She offered weak Gautama, rice dish after which gave him enough strength to meditate to reach enlightenment. This vihara is about a kilometre from Bodhi temple. The stupa is said to be built by King Devapala.
18: Sujata Temple:
Emancipated Buddha being offered kheer rice dish. The temple is said to be made by Burmese monks.
19: School at Sujata Kuti:
A little girl gave me a Victory signal for my journey. You will find beggars in the area, please avoid and focus on the journey.
20: An unvisited location-Emancipated Buddha temple.:
A temple revered by both Buddhists and Hindus. It is said that a Tibetan monk meditated in the well here. Also, emaciated Buddha mediated here, before crossing the river!
A community at the outskirts of village. (On way back from Sujata Kuti)
Why I captured the snap? This community is plagued by the casteism of worst sort and hence live at the roadside. Poorest of poor, they used to eat “mouse” for feeding themselves. The water tanks above their houses given as a donation by Sri Lankan Government.
An ancient damaged statue lying abandoned at the gates of the temple.
23: SACRED WELL
Sacred Well:
Well in which Tibetan monk took Samadhi.
24: Tara Temple now Durgaeshwari Temple:
This is picture taken near Niranjana river, Durgeshwari temple. Durgeshwari statue had replaced Tara statue which is considered being female Buddha. A stupa amidst the shiva lingams is an amazing feature out here. Offbeat location, unvisited!
The temple was constructed by Daijokyo sect of Japan.
This statue was inaugurated by HH The Dalai Lama in 1984. A Daijokyo temple stands next to the statue.
26:Tibetan Temple near Bodhi Temple
A Tibetan temple in front Mahabodhi temple. It’s a home for HH the Dalai Lama when he is in Bodh Gaya. HH give teachings almost every year during winters! You can book for teachings from his official website.
27: Thai Temple:
Thai temple, near Museum of Archaeology. This is one of the oldest temples and dates back to 1957. It enshrines a gold statue of Buddha.
28: SACRED HILLS
Beside the Niranjana river, Bakror village are the hills sacred to Buddhists. The legend says that Buddha walked from hills to river and went to Mahabodhi tree to meditate to reach enlightenment. This is near to Dungheswari Cave temples.
The Tree must wait for the next Buddha for sure. Just a stone throw away from the river.
30: One of the most beautiful temples in Bodh Gaya :
A silver white Thai temple. There are many Thai temples, but this one is marvellous.
31: Karmapa Temple.
This temple is the largest Tibetan temple dedicated to Kagyupa sect. Hollywood star Richard Gere is a regular visitor to this place. The temple is said to be established in 1938.
32: Mongolian Temple :
Mongolia also follows Tibetan style of Buddhism. The structure of the temple is unique, a bit distinctive from Tibet.
33:Mahabodhi Society of India:
Anagarika Dharmapala founded the Dharmashala in 1901. The history of the place reflects fight among Mahants and Buddhists. Buddhists did not have the place to stay, hence Dharmapala founded this inn to help monks/ followers.
34: Root Institute of Wisdom:
A Buddhist centre in the Tibetan tradition in Bodhgaya, India, providing a tranquil haven for the study and practice of philosophy & meditation. The above two photos are of the institute. It is over 30 years in its existence and the institute lot of humanitarian work which includes modern education for poor children and a healthcare unit. It is two kilometres away from the main temple. It is part of the FMPT framework of the foundation of Lama Zopa Rinpoche and Lama Yeshe. The other centres are there in Dharmashala, Bangalore and Goa.
Picture Blog by : S Rahul
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Offbeat Travel firm: Himalayan Tours
(Ladakh, Kashmir, Sikkim, Bhutan, Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Nepal)
Please write to authorrahul@outlook.com for any information.
https://rahulnachhiketa.blogspot.com/2019/09/bodh-gaya-travelogue.html
Knowledge partner: My friend — Jackie (Bodh Gaya)
Originally published at https://tpltweb.com on September 6, 2019.
