‘Bombay ilish’ from Gujarat fills Bengal hilsa void in Kolkata markets

KOLKATA: The price of local hilsa has climbed sharply across Kolkata markets over the last week. With no significant catch for the last 10 days along coastal Sundarbans, 500g-600g hilsas are now selling for a steep Rs 1,000. Bengal hilsas weighing 1,200g-1,500g have almost disappeared from city markets.

A few are available for Rs 1,800-2,200. Instead, hilsas from Gujarat have filled the void.However, though they weigh more, they can’t match the taste of the local hilsa.
Srabani Kar Choudhury, who bought 2.2kg of Gujarat hilsa from Gariahat market at Rs 2,000 a kg, said, “I bought this hilsa for my son and daughter-in-law who came to Kolkata from New Jersey. But it was tasteless.”
City fish-lovers are often duped by this saltwater hilsa, popularly known as “Bombay Ilish” among the fish traders. This hilsa is usually bigger (1kg-2kg) compared to Bengal hilsa and is cheaper.
During monsoon, adult hilsas swim several hundred kilometres upstream to freshwater from the Bay of Bengal to spawn and return. Experts say during the journey from saline to sweet water there is a hormonal change in hilsa, which makes the fish tasty.
“Recently, we have been getting hilsa from Bharuch in large quantities. Later, we expect supply from Veraval and Porbandar in Gujarat,” said Syed Anwar Maqsood, secretary, Howrah Wholesale Fish Market and Fish Importer’s Association. “Though it resembles Bengal hilsa, this sea water hilsa is tasteless,” Maqsood said.
In Maniktala and Jadu Babu’s Bazar, too, there were hardly any Bengal hilsa. “I searched for hilsa on Friday at Lansdowne fish market and traders asked for Rs 1,000 for a 550g fish,” said Soumitra Das, a customer.
“Trawlers are now set to sail again for hilsa and expect a good catch in the coming weeks,” said Satinath Patra, secretary, Sunderban Sagardwip Mastyajibi Shramik Union.