A first trip to Jodhpur is a bit like a visit to the Taj Mahal. Most visitors have been armchair travellers before, and it is with trepidation that they approach the city, wondering if it will meet their expectations. Like the Taj Mahal, the Blue City does not disappoint; it is love at first sight.
Jodhpur rises like an indigo-dyed mirage from the ochre countryside and surrounding desertscape. At its crest, the majestic Mehrangarh Fort stands sentinel over the old gates and clock tower. The walled city and its busy by-lanes are lined with old houses and havelis that keep a deferential eye on the Umaid Bhawan Palace nearby. Hidden stepwells and old bazaars add to its medieval charm; to travel to Jodhpur is to journey back in time.
The Rathore clan that once reigned over Marwar has a long and tumultuous history of victory and defeat. In 1459, Rao Jodha moved the capital from Mandore to Jodhpur, which he named after himself. Jodhpur grew wealthy from trade—even the Mughals coveted it—but the impregnable fort was impossible to conquer. Eventually, they forged an alliance with the Rathores when Akbar married Udai Singh’s sister. The last Maharaja before Independence was Umaid Singh, after whom the palace is named. When the royal Privy Purse was abolished in 1971, his descendant Maharaja Gaj Singh paved the way for heritage tourism by opening up his ancestral fort and palace to tourists. Given the wealth of heritage properties in this state marked by feudal kingdoms, he set a precedent, thereby giving a boost to tourism in Rajasthan. The family continues to occupy a part of this beautiful palace known for its memorabilia and several acres of gardens that house a museum, library and zoo. Tread softly, for this is also one of the world’s grandest luxury hotels today, and a destination in itself.
Mehrangarh Fort is sprawled atop a hillock. Within the fort complex lie the inest examples of Rajput design and architecture. It is encircled by the Old City, whose narrow, crooked lanes lead you through rows of houses bathed in blue, deeper than the cerulean sky above, and in contrast with the heaps of scarlet chillies left to dry in their courtyards. The colour blue was once the mark of distinction of the city’s Shaivite Brahmins, but has since been adopted by others, including a local mosque. Close to the fort complex lies the serene, white Jaswant Thada, a cluster of marble cenotaphs commemorating Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, and the Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park. The latter is an oasis in the arid countryside, with beautiful walking trails that showcase the lora of the region.
The city bazaars and gates like Jalori Gate and Sojati Gate are alive with the buzz of daily life. True to Rajasthani tradition, shops sell everything from antiques, camel bone and leather items, to hand block-printed textiles, bright leheriya and bandhani fabrics, and, of course, the well-known jodhpurs—the classic breeches that derive their name from the city. The famous Sadar Bazaar is teeming with local temptations, including silver jewellery, lacquerware, puppets and carpets. One can even buy excellent spices such as the pungent, bright red Mathania chillies, which lend their lavour to the local cuisine.
Jodhpur has made significant contributions to India’s culinary landscape, especially in terms of snacks and savouries. Specialities such as makhaniya lassi, mawa kachori, pyaaz ki kachori and mirchi vada have their origins here. The city also has a sweet tooth, with a weakness for mawa sweets and doodh phirni, which, according to tradition, are to be had before a meal. Among the many experiences that the city has to offer, the combination of its culinary delights, with the view from its rooftop restaurants and bars, is one of the finest.
The Blue City is a sensorial extravaganza, with its colours, smells, sounds and tastes. Festivals such as the Jodhpur Rajasthan International Folk Festival or RIFF (of which Mick Jagger is an international patron), Marwar Festival, Nagaur Fair and Desert Kite Festival enhance the experience, but with its vibrant culture and the hospitality of its cheerful, brightly attired residents, Jodhpur exudes a festive feel all year round.
The city’s central location—it is flanked by Jaipur and Jaisalmer—means it’s a blend of both eastern and western Rajasthan. At a short distance are attractions such as Sardar Samand Lake, Rohetgarh and the beautiful temples of Osian, ideal for a getaway. In the surrounding villages, you can observe the daily life of the nature-worshipping Bishnoi tribe and watch potters and weavers at work. Jodhpur lies on the fringe of the Thar Desert, allowing for camel safaris, desert camps and luxury stays in sandstone forts. And yet, for those who wish to experience the city fully, it may be enough to wander aimlessly through its maze of gullies, soaking in the sights and sounds under a vast sky so blue that it seems to relect the hues of the city below.
