Manish Arora designs his first-ever menswear collection for Koovs

Manish Arora is globally renowned for designing eccentric womenswear splashed with outrageous colour. Now he’s training his attention to menswear for the first time, partnering with e-commerce brand Koovs. The collection – which includes everything from board shorts and bombers to high-tops and phone covers – retains Arora’s edge, but is broadly accessible and can be pulled off by (almost) any guy.

Arora burst onto the fashion scene in 1997 when he launched his eponymous label. In 2000, he was a key part of India’s first Fashion Week, before showing in London in 2005 and Paris in 2007. Next came a stint as the artistic director at Paco Rabanne, following which he took the bold step of opening his brand’s flagship store in the City of Love. As a result, Arora now has a cross-continent business between Paris and Delhi – with a sizeable Left Bank and local fanbase that reveres his kitschy codes.

While Arora’s most widely regarded as a couture fashion designer, with Koovs he’s been able to deliver a collection for fashion-forward men at high-street prices. We’re snagging the high-tops for sure.

So, it seems you’re the king of collaborations!

I’ve done over 50 of them, but never one involving menswear. So I was excited by the challenge, and interested in testing out the men’s market.

So what was different about designing for men?

Initially, I thought I’d keep Indian men in mind, but once the process started, I decided to do what I wanted. So the collection is quite forward for India – but somebody had to do it. Men are being more experimental. Young guys have a sense of style and they’re conscious of it, which is exciting.

Your favourite pieces from this collection?

The black, white and red sweatshirt and the gold high-tops. I think the vests and socks will do very well. It’s my dream to see a guy carrying the gold backpack on the streets.

What made this seem like the right time and space to do something in menswear?

I would’ve never done it on my own. This was perfect: Koovs takes care of the production and I focus on the design. What I find especially interesting is the price points. I wouldn’t have been able to achieve that on my own. This collection is very high street. It’s for everyone.

What’s your take on menswear in India?

Guys are getting more adventurous, more conscious about fashion. We don’t have many exciting men’s brands in India. There’s quite a big gap. Our designers are conservative but the awareness is growing. Bollywood has a role to play. Ranveer Singh is extreme and out there, and helps inspire regular men.

Your collection seems a lot more subdued compared to some of your womenswear.

Well, the price point makes you really cut down on things. You can’t have it overly embellished, as it becomes expensive. I had to keep Koovs in mind as well – the brand has broad appeal. When you’re designing for everyone, you have to be a little more conservative.

How much does street style influence fashion?

Bollywood is the biggest influencer for fashion in India.

Which menswear designers do you love?

I wear a lot of Dries van Noten, Prada, Lanvin and COS. For shoes, it’s Louboutin and Saint Laurent. The only Indian designer I wear is Rajesh Pratap Singh.

How do you unwind?

By going to Burning Man!