There are countless stereotypes about the Emerald Isle — and most of them are true. There really are a zillion shades of green in the countryside; locals do have a tendency to burst into song in the pub at the slightest provocation; and yes, it does rain quite a bit.
But true as they may be, there’s so much more to Ireland than those dusty old tropes. This is a place where basking sharks swim into wonderfully clear bays, where the surf can be as good as Hawaii’s and where you can get a perfect bowl of Korean bibimbap for less than £10.
Visit Ireland and you’ll quickly see why everyone makes such a fuss about it. There are the historic attractions that you’ll find in every travel guide, such as the atmospheric Long Room in Trinity College and the stirring beauty of Glendalough. But then there are those unexpected moments — stumbling upon a converted horse trailer serving prosecco at the side of the road, or a lake that sparkles with bioluminescence. This is a country where you should expect distractions at every turn.
This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. These links are signposted with an asterisk. More information here.
What to do
One of the best things about Ireland is its size — if you wanted to, you could drive from one end to the other in about five hours. But where’s the fun in that? Instead, pick out a few key places and give yourself time to explore them properly.
Advertisement
Kick things off in Dublin and spend a few days soaking up the city*, popping into the excellent free museums and making the most of the thriving food scene*. Then pick up a car — Ireland’s poor public transport system makes that a must — and head down to County Kerry.
If you close your eyes and dream of Ireland, Kerry* is the land that you’re probably imagining; dramatic, lusciously green mountains dotted with sheep, wide expanses of pristine lakes and thatched cottages dusted along the hillsides. A quick pootle through the Killarney National Park is enough to make you fall in love with the place and there are plenty of scenic stopping points along the way where you can take in the enchanting views without risking a ticket.
From there, drive the Wild Atlantic Way to County Clare, where you’ll find one of the most famous sights in the country: the Cliffs of Moher*. Venture to the visitor centre and take a walk on the newly upgraded coastal trail; most people don’t stray too far from the main attraction, so you’ll get an even better vantage point if you do. Alternatively, head on a boat trip to look up at the cliffs from the water for a different, but equally mesmerising, viewpoint.
Make your way up to Northern Ireland and check out the epic drive known as the Causeway Coast. Home of the route’s namesake, the Giant’s Causeway*, the drive itself may be short but you can tick off a renowned sight every 20 minutes or so, from the rickety Carrick-a-rede rope bridge that swings almost 100 feet over the crashing waves, to Bushmills, the oldest licensed distillery in the world. This is also prime Game of Thrones territory, with filming locations in every direction — download the free app if you want to find them all, or keep an eye out for the handy place markers that tell you what was shot there.
Where to stay
The island of Ireland is full of places to stay, from boutique hotels in the cities to luxurious country piles. Try Dublin for grand, centuries-old hotels set in the gorgeous Georgian buildings that line the city parks. Outside of the capital, you’ll find the majority of the country’s most luxurious hotels in Kerry*, where the hills around the great lakes are punctuated with swish five-star pads.
Advertisement
Don’t overlook the heart of the country, either. This is where you’ll find the bulk of Ireland’s country-house hotels, from the ultra-luxurious Ballyfin in County Laois to the lavish country estate Adare Manor. You can continue the Lord of the Manor vibe in any number of striking castle hotels, from the grandiose Ashford Castle* on the lakeshore in Mayo, to the Connemara dreamboat that is Ballynahinch Castle*.
If you’re on a budget, Galway* has more well-priced boutique hotels than you can shake a bodhran at. Alongside the city’s proliferation of hostels and old school B&Bs, there’s a new wave of artsy hotels catering to those who know they’ll be spending the bulk of their time out on the town.
Don’t miss
The southern parts of Ireland’s west coast get all the glory, but don’t skip the counties of Donegal* and Sligo in the northwest. Here, you’ll be met with incredible sea cliffs such as Sliabh Liag, white-sand beaches and only a fraction of the tourists you’d find down in Cork and Kerry. This is the scenery that Irish dreams are made of, with dramatic mountains swathed in deep green forests, megalithic tombs strewn about the roadside and plenty of deep, still lakes. It’s a dream for bike riding too; particularly the lakeside routes around Sligo’s Lough Gill and the Ox Mountains. The views will leave you breathless — and only partly because of those challenging hills.
FAQs
What is the best month to visit Ireland?
October — the throngs of summer tourists have gone, the leaves are giving New England a run for its money and the pubs start to light the fires, giving you the perfect excuse for a cosy afternoon pint of Guinness. Oddly, the weather is often better than it is in the summer, making it one of the ideal times to visit.
How many days do I need in Ireland?
Avoid trying to cram too much into one trip. The island of Ireland may be small, but trying to tick off everything in a crazed four-day road trip will leave you unsatisfied. If you want to see a few places, give yourself a full week and focus on no more than two or three locations.
Advertisement
What should I avoid in Ireland?
If you’re visiting in the height of summer, skip the Ring of Kerry or Connemara. Sure, they’re beautiful, but those pretty winding roads are jam packed with campervans and tour buses. When you’re in Dublin, give the “traditional Irish” pubs of Temple Bar a miss — they’re the Irish equivalent of TGI Fridays and prices jump after 11pm.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Ireland but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from British Airways* and Expedia*.
• Discover holiday packages to Dublin*
• Discover holiday packages to County Kerry*
• Discover tours in Ireland*
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.