From the dramatic cliffs, remote islands and atmospheric towns of the Wild Atlantic Way to the fairytale castles, craggy mountains and placid lakes of the Ancient East, Ireland is a land where beauty is matched by variety. In the words of Johnny Cash, the Emerald Isle is rendered in “40 shades of green”, contrasting with a similar spread of blues and greys. The weather changes frequently here, making even the same landscape look different from one minute to the other. The only guarantee is that you will be constantly reaching for your camera. These are some of our scenic highlights.
Main picture: Cliffs of Moher (AirSwing Media)
1. The Old Library, Trinity College Library, Dublin
Most people make the pilgrimage to this bibliophile’s heaven to see the intricately illuminated Book of Kells, which is a manuscript edition of the New Testament thought to have been created around AD800. However, the Long Room, which was built in the early 18th century, is a thing of beauty in itself. It houses 200,000 of the oldest books in impressive floor-to-ceiling shelves that climb up to the vaulted ceiling. The rows are lined with marble busts; it’s a cathedral in which to worship the written word.
Where to stay The Alex is just a few minutes’ stroll from Trinity College and features local artwork in the stylish rooms
The tour This fast-track easy-access Book of Kells tour includes a visit to Dublin Castle, which was the seat of English, and later British, rule from 1204 to 1922.
2. Cliffs of Moher, County Clare
You can’t fail to be humbled by the enormity of these sandstone, siltstone and sedimentary cliffs that rise more than 700ft and stretch for five miles along the Atlantic coast. Stand and look out at the fiercely breaking waves and you’ll feel as though the wind is eroding your cheeks in the way it has the rocks. The safe viewing platforms relieve some of the vertigo you may feel when looking down.
Advertisement
Where to stay Enjoy the primary colours and Scandi wood panelling of boutique Hotel Doolin in the music capital of County Clare. The Cliffs of Moher are a short drive away.
The tour Viator’s day trip from Cork also stops at Bunratty Castle, a 15th-century turreted castle on the site of a 1st-century Viking trading camp.
3. Kinsale, County Cork
One of the most colourful of Ireland’s small towns, Kinsale sits on the seafront just south of Cork with its brightly painted houses as vibrant as a seaside windbreak. Here you can watch fishermen unloading their catch, wander the narrow medieval streets and listen to traditional music in the local bars.
Where to stay If the sea’s too chilly, make the most of the indoor pool at Actons, a four-star boutique hotel.
The tour Take a walking tour with local guides Don and Barry to learn about the town’s connection to the Spanish Armada.
4. Achill Island, County Mayo
The largest island off the west coast of Ireland, Achill is a blend of peat bogs and mountains that slip down to sandy beaches or craggy coves. The author Graham Greene visited several times in the 1940s and wrote parts of the novels The Heart of the Matter and The Fallen Idol in the village of Dooagh, near Keem Bay on the south coast. Rent a bike to explore the Western Greenway, a 26-mile trail that circumnavigates the island.
Advertisement
Where to stay Charmingly eccentric Ferndale B&B has views across the south-facing sandy beach at Keel Strand to the 1,000ft-high cliffs of Menawan beyond. Rooms have names such as Mayan Treasure Bay (heavy with red brocade) and Laguna Venetia (palazzo-inspired marble floors and roll-top bath).
The tour Achill Coach Tours will take you from Westport to Achill island and show you the deserted village — 80 houses that were abandoned during the 19th-century famine when starving families relocated to a seaside location.
5. Skellig Michael, County Kerry
This is the most westerly sacred site in Europe. A monastic settlement has been on the rocky outcrop of Skellig Michael since the 6th century. This twin-pinnacled crag in the Atlantic, off the Iveragh peninsula of County Kerry, marks the end of the Apollo/St Michael axis, a line of ancient pilgrimage sites running from Ireland to Palestine. Bird lovers visit for sightings of the puffins and razor bills that make this wild island their home.
Where to stay Trips to the island depart from the colourful fishing town of Portmagee. Stay at the Moorings Hotel and you’ll be first in the queue to board.
The tour To view the well-preserved remains of the St Fionan monastery, choose a Skellig Michael Landing Tour, which allows you to disembark from the boat and explore the island.
6. Galway, County Galway
This colourful harbour city on Ireland’s west coast is alive with Irish tradition. Gaelic is in daily use and you’ll see bilingual road signs and shop names. The beauty is in the brightly painted houses, cobbled streets and the celebration of Irish music, song and dancing in the bars and pubs. Don’t miss the Salthill promenade, a walk that stretches from the Latin quarter in the city along 3km of coastline to the Blackrock diving tower (tradition has it you should kick the wall here at the end of your walk).
Where to stay The four-star Galmont Hotel and Spa occupies a prime central location with views over the sea inlet Lough Atalia and Galway Bay. Facilities include an 18m pool and subterranean spa.
The tour See Galway City from the bay while catching shrimp and lobster on a Galway Bay Boat Tour.
Advertisement
Best hotels in Northern Ireland
7. Killarney National Park, County Kerry
In the heart of County Kerry in the southwest of Ireland, Killarney National Park is sultry and majestic. At the base of the McGillycuddy’s Reeks, Ireland’s largest mountain range, 26,000 acres of woodlands and lakes spread out in shades of greens, browns, indigos and blues, making up this Unesco biosphere reserve. Brave the icy water for a swim at the bottom of Torc waterfall or learn about traditional farming techniques at Muckross House.
Where to stay The five-star Aghadoe Heights hotel is perched on a hilltop with panoramic views over the park. There’s also a spa to ease your muscles after all that walking,
The tour Viator has a Ring of Kerry Day Tour from Cork, which will take you on this famous driving route that includes Killarney National Park as well as the traditional Irish village of Sneem.
8. Aran Islands
These three islands off the coast of Galway are rich in Celtic and Christian history. The largest, Inis Mór, has a deep rectangular natural swimming pool known as the “worm hole” as well as more than 50 monuments of Christian or Celtic importance. The middle island, Inis Meáin, is the least visited of the trio and was once the retreat of Irish playwright JM Synge. The smallest, Inis Oírr, has a fishing-village feel and dramatic views of the Cliffs of Moher.
Where to stay Base yourself in one of five luxury suites on Inis Meain, run by the same family as the island’s knitwear company that sends Aran jumpers all over the world.
The tour Visit Inis Oírr Island and then enjoy a cruise at the foot of the famous Cliffs of Moher with this Viator tour.
9. Waterford Greenway, County Waterford
Advertisement
Starting at the city that made its name producing crystal glassware, this walking and cycling route follows 46km of disused railway line from Waterford to the seaside town of Dungarvan. The entire route is car-free and you get spectacular sea views once you hit the coast. If you are not up to doing the full trail, the stretch between Kilmacthomas and Dungarvan is the most scenic.
Where to stay You’ll have burnt enough calories to enjoy a slap-up meal at the Tannery in Dungarvan (perhaps wild Atlantic cod with Dollar Bay clams and sea greens), and spend the night in one of their 14 rooms.
The tour Waterford Greenway Cycle tours can sort you out with bike hire, including ebike options, and provide a free shuttle bus so you won’t have to make the long journey back.
10. The Burren, County Clare
This is Ireland’s 250 sq km rock garden. The great hunks of exposed limestone that make up the Burren National Park are home to a large variety of wildflowers, including 22 different types of orchid. This part of the Emerald Isle was once the seabed, but has lain exposed to the elements since the Ice Age, creating a lunar-like landscape made up of caves and crevices, fossils and flowers.
Where to stay Bed down in one of the 12 boutique rooms of the Fiddle + Bow in the heart of Doolin, one of the best towns to hear traditional music, on the edge of the Burren Geopark.
The tour NatureTrek has a five-day botanical tour of the rare flora of this unique landscape.
11. Kylemore Abbey, County Galway
The serenity of this turreted neo-Gothic Victorian castle, which seems to be slipping into the water at the base of a hill in Connemara, is enough to make you want to join the Benedictine nuns who have made this their home since the 1920s. The walled garden here was the largest to be built in Ireland during the Victorian era and today is a heritage garden that only contains plants that were available pre-1901. Marvel at little-seen Victorian vegetables such as cardoon (related to the globe artichoke) and scorzonera (a long thin root vegetable similar to salsify).
Advertisement
Where to stay Luxury Ballynahinch Castle is half an hour’s drive away and full of Connemara spirit (think impromptu Irish songs in the bar after an afternoon of fly-fishing in the river).
The tour This Connemara day trip from Galway includes a three-hour stop at Kylemore Abbey.
12. Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary
It’s not such a long way to Tipperary as the song would have you believe; only about two hours from Galway or Dublin. The drive is worth it to visit one of Ireland’s most popular tourist attractions. The towers and turrets of this medieval cathedral rise from a flat, empty plain like a fairytale palace suspended in mid-air. The oldest parts date back 1,000 years, as the building started life as a fort and castle for the kings of Munster and this is thought to be the site where St Patrick converted King Aenghus to Christianity in the 5th century.
Where to stay Four-star Baileys Hotel is set in a Georgian townhouse on Cashel’s Main Street.
The tour Paddy Wagon Tours has a day trip from Cork that takes in the Rock of Cashel and also gives you two hours to explore the cobbled streets of the medieval city of Kilkenny.
13. Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry
Jutting into the Atlantic like a giant thumb, the Dingle Peninsula is an incredible stretch of natural beauty featuring coastal cliffs, ruined castles, rugged hills and medieval beehive huts. Beaches abound, from rocky coves to glorious sandy bays. A short ferry ride away are the Blasket Islands, which were home to an Irish-speaking community until the 1950s, when the last residents were evacuated due to increasingly extreme weather, and now provides a nesting ground for seals and puffins.
Where to stay Dingle Skellig hotel is right on Dingle Bay and you can watch marine life from the outdoor hot tub on the spa terrace.
The tour A Dingle Seafari will whisk you to the Blasket Islands where you can watch the colony of seals and seasonally spot puffins or dolphins.
14. The Wild Atlantic Way, West Ireland
The Wild Atlantic Way’s route has always been there, snaking along the coast road on the west of Ireland from Malin Head in Donegal to Mizen Head in County Cork, but with some good marketing and a dedicated website it’s gained popularity in recent years. The driving route passes through nine counties and will provide some of the most dramatic driving you’ve ever experienced, winding along towering cliffs with the Atlantic crashing below. The sunsets aren’t too shabby either.
Where to stay Loop Head Lighthouse Keeper’s House is run by the Irish Landmark Trust and is right at the tip of Loop Head in County Clare in the southern part of the route, with panoramic views of the sea down to Kerry Head and Dingle and across to the Cliffs of Moher.
The tour If you’d rather not self-drive, McInlay Kidd has a guided rail tour.
15. English market, Cork City
Perhaps the most Instagrammed building in Cork, the English market, with its central fountain, stone floors and vaulted ceiling, is a beautifully preserved 18th-century covered market. Built by the Protestant leaders of the city at the time, it became known as the English market in the mid-19th century when a Catholic “Irish” majority took over the city council and built a second covered market, St Peter’s, which became known as the Irish market. The English market is now a food emporium; the place to buy organic sourdough bread, olives and tapenade or Irish-produced pecorino and mozzarella, among other delicacies.
Where to stay Just behind the English market, the four-star Imperial Hotel was Cork’s very first hotel and is full of period grandeur.
The tour On a Cork culinary tour you’ll get to meet the market traders and sample some produce.
16. Brú na Bóinne, County Meath
An ancient site that is older than the Egyptian pyramids or Stonehenge, Brú na Bóinne (which means Palace of the Boyne) is an archaeological treasure trove with three large Neolithic passage tombs, Knowth, Newgrange and Dowth. Newgrange is positioned so that the sun pours into the chamber at winter solstice. To be in with a chance of experiencing this phenomenon, you need to enter a lottery, which you can do by email or at the visitor centre.
Where to stay The quirky country house B&B Collon House is crammed with antiques and period paintings and is a 15-minute drive from the tombs.
The tour Viator offers a day tour that also takes in Trim Castle, the largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland with an imposing 20-sided cruciform central tower.
17. Wicklow Mountains National Park, County Wicklow
Wicklow Mountains National Park is just an hour away from the hustle and bustle of Dublin, but is like journeying to a time before civilisation: glacial valleys cupping mirror-still lakes; windswept mountain tops; dense woodland. This is the largest highland area in Ireland and the setting for a glut of movies, including P.S. I Love You, Excalibur and Braveheart.
Where to stay Historic Glendalough Hotel sits at the entrance of the park and is adjacent to 12th-century St Kevin’s Kitchen and the Glendalough Monastery.
The tour Get Your Guide has a full day tour of the national park from Dublin, which includes horse-riding, cycling or a guided walk.
18. Portsalon Beach, Donegal
A mile of golden sand defines this blue-flag beach on the shores of Ballymastocker Bay in Donegal. It’s on the western side of Lough Swilly, about a 15-minute drive from Fanad Head lighthouse, and the water here is safe for swimming (if a little cold). Lifeguards are on duty between June and September.
Where to stay Portsalon Luxury Camping offers the chance to stay in a fancy yurt (with a king-sized bed and a wood-burning stove) only a six-minute drive from the beach.
The tour The Fanad Peninsula trip, by Donegal Tours, takes in the beautiful bay as well as Fanad lighthouse, in its spectacular setting on the edge of the Atlantic.
19. Lough Gill, County Sligo
Find inspiration on the banks of this freshwater lake in County Sligo and Leitrim, where WB Yeats set his poem The Lake Isle of Innisfree (Innisfree is one of about 20 islands that dot the lake like giant stepping stones). Walk among the ancient woodland on the shore or swim in the bracing water.
Where to stay The architecturally striking Glasshouse hotel offers bright designer rooms in the city centre, two miles from the lake.
The tour The Lough Gill tour takes in a burial site on the north shore of Lough Gill, a 16th-century Franciscan friary and Parke’s Castle, a 17th-century manor house.
20. Kilkenny City, County Kilkenny
Ireland’s smallest city is also one of the prettiest — and most creative. Medieval buildings house artisan shops, and artists and makers flock to the city to revel in its vibrant design scene. Kilkenny Design Centre in a converted castle stables is one of the best places in Ireland to buy handmade products by up-and-coming stars, while the National Design and Craft Gallery displays work by more established artists.
Where to stay Butler House hotel is in the Georgian dower house of Kilkenny Castle, so you’re right in the heart of the historic centre.
The tour Explore the Medieval Mile with a 90-minute Shenanigans walking tour and hear tales of knights and witches.
21. Ross Castle, County Kerry
Particularly dramatic at night when the walls of the 15th-century tower and keep are floodlit, this castle was built by the Irish chieftain O’ Donoghue Ross. Sometimes called O’Donoghue’s Castle, it stands on the shores of Lough Leane in picturesque Killarney National Park. The castle was one of the last in Munster to surrender to Oliver Cromwell in the Irish Confederate wars. Look out for the red deer that sometimes come to the lake to drink.
Where to stay You’ll get a warm welcome and hearty breakfast at Ross Castle Lodge, a four-star B&B just a ten-minute walk from the castle.
The tour Killarney Jaunting Cars will take you in a traditional horse and carriage through the national park to Ross Castle.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.
