There is a right way and a wrong way to visit a wonder of the world. The wrong way mostly includes showing up without a plan. The right way is a more delicate operation, one you should coordinate with an expert ahead of time.
This is particularly true of visiting Peru’s most famous archaeological site, Machu Picchu. The Inca citadel is one of the most famous ancient treasures on the planet, responsible for driving a large majority of Peru’s tourism. You cannot just turn up and expect to get in there swiftly to take all your precious alpaca pictures.
To unearth the secrets to visiting the place properly, we sat down with Andres Adasme, a Chilean architect and archaeoastronomer who’s lived in Cusco, Peru, for decades. Adasme designs tours for travelers, so it’s his business to know the best way to see the citadel. Here’s how to do it right.
Arrive with some context
Instead of showing up to Machu Picchu for the day to appreciate the architectural mastery of the Incas for a few hours, do the place justice and take time to learn more about Peru’s culture and history. You don’t have to study abroad in Lima for a year, but you should consider booking a vacation with Mountain Lodges of Peru. The luxury-tour operator just launched a new lodge-to-lodge journey that follows Inca trails through the Sacred Valley, Lares, and ultimately Machu Picchu. Over the course of five or seven days, travelers will learn about the ancient people of Peru, meet the current residents of the country’s metropolitan and rural areas, go on “soft” and “hard” adventures (smaller treks and more challenging treks, respectively).
These trips are not all about hiking; there’s also incredible Peruvian meals to be had along the way. Activity highlights include staying at lodges with personal hot tubs on the balconies for supremely comfortable southern-hemisphere stargazing, sitting down with Andean fortune tellers who will read your aura with the help of coca leaves, and private archaeology tours of isolated ruins. Most importantly, the beauty of booking an adventure with a tour company is that you don’t have to deal with all of the rigmarole of red-tape issues like getting the right tickets, or figuring out how to get to the citadel in the first place.
Get the right tickets
If you do go it alone, as previously mentioned, it is unwise to show up to the site without a plan, or a ticket. Visiting Machu Picchu requires a specific ticket, or tickets, depending on what kind of experience you’re looking for. “If you want to visit the whole day, you have to buy two tickets,” says Adasme. “A year and a half ago, the idea was to have only one ticket, one entrance, and you can spend the whole day in Machu Picchu. But now they split the place in two.” Visitors can either go in the morning from 6:00 A.M. to 12:00, or in the afternoon from 12:00 to 5:00 P.M. If you want to explore beyond the citadel and hike up to Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain (excellent opportunities for taking epic photos), you’ll need more tickets. Both mountain hikes can be tackled in two turns, one at 7:00 A.M. and one at 9:00 A.M. There’s a limit to how many hikers are allowed each day, so tickets sell out online far in advance. And don’t forget to bring your passport—those tickets are made out to you and you alone. Machu Picchu staff will ask for your ID upon entry to the site.
Remember that earlier is not better
Most tourists think the move is to arrive at 6 A.M. for the sunrise, but most tourists are wrong. The lion’s share of visitors choose the morning time slot, making the place a khaki-filled zoo of selfie sticks. And since Machu Picchu is located in a cloud forest, the place is prone to rain and clouds: A photogenic sunrise is not guaranteed. Instead, follow Adasme’s advice and go in the afternoon for fewer tourists and better picture potential.
Avoid shenanigans
When you visit Machu Picchu, show the Incan treasure some respect. Those who don’t will quickly be reprimanded by a security guard. That means no yelling, no jumping photos, no trespassing into guarded-off areas. Anyone caught breaking the rules will either be met with a whistle and a warning, or be escorted out of the citadel. You are, however, allowed to pet the free-roaming alpacas (if they don’t run away first). They’re not native to this altitude but are brought to the site for the tourists to ’gram.
Book a guide
There’s no flying completely solo at Machu Picchu. These days, Adasme says, “you are forced to have a guide, and you have assigned circuit around the citadel. They are trying to make the visit more organized to protect the citadel.” If you’re a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants traveler, you can find freelance guides outside the Machu Picchu gate, but you’re usually better off going with a professional you’ve booked in advance.
Start in Lima
A lot of tourists will jump straight to Cusco when they come to Peru for Picchu. But they’re missing out on experiencing the country’s capital city, Lima. The vibrant city is home to excellent surf spots, cocktail bars, and world-renowned restaurants. Give Lima at least a day or two of your taste buds’ attention. Don’t miss dinner at Astrid y Gaston to learn about the influence of Peru’s immigrant history on the country’s culinary culture, or pisco tasting at Huaringas Bar in Miraflores. Roll your drunk ass to bed at Casa Republica, a gem of a boutique hotel in Barranco, Lima’s more bohemian neighborhood right on the oceanfront cliffs. Just make sure to hydrate before heading to Machu Picchu’s high elevation; passing out makes for terrible vacation photos.
