. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. ays before Sella photographed it.^ I will now resume the narrative from June 14th, on which day theDuke had sent ahead Sella, Negrotto and myself to set up a light campat Windy Gap. Lorenzo Petigax, Emilio Brocherel and twelve coolies T. G. LoNGSTAFF, Uhicitr Exploration in the Eastern Karakoram. Geog. Jour. 35, 1910,p. 631. See also a note by Dr. Longstaff in Alp. Jour. May, 1911 (vol. 29), p. 488, where hegives reasons for identifying Teram Kangri with the peak p

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. Karakoram and western Himalaya 1909, an account of the expedition of H. R. H. Prince Luigi Amadeo of Savoy, duke of the Abruzzi. ays before Sella photographed it.^ I will now resume the narrative from June 14th, on which day theDuke had sent ahead Sella, Negrotto and myself to set up a light campat Windy Gap. Lorenzo Petigax, Emilio Brocherel and twelve coolies T. G. LoNGSTAFF, Uhicitr Exploration in the Eastern Karakoram. Geog. Jour. 35, 1910, p. 631. See also a note by Dr. Longstaff in Alp. Jour. May, 1911 (vol. 29), p. 488, where hegives reasons for identifying Teram Kangri with the peak photographed by Sella. TIr- Upper Godwin Austen Glacier. 263 formed our escort, and we were roped together in two long files. Themorning was cold and windy, with a thick atmosphere. We climbedup the left side of the glacier, in the furrow next the wall, reaching ina few minutes the top of the second level. The drop of the glacierbeside us was cut by broad crevasses, typically V-shaped, with theapex pointing downwards. We went gradually towaid the centre ofthe valley to get out of range of possible avalanches from the glaciers. STAIRCASE PEAK, THE END OF THE NORTH-EASTERN RIDUE OF K-, ^VND THE OPENING OF STAIRCASE BASIN. hanging on the steep walls of the left side. This wall runs fairlystraight, without marked side valleys, and has only two peaks—22, 339and 22, 995 feet in height—from the latter of which a rounded rocky]ib, loaded with ice and snow, descends to Windy Gap. The otherside of the valley is formed by the long north-east buttress of K-, asheer precipice, all ice and perpendicular cliffs. It ends in a roundsnow-covered shoulder, above which towers a sharp pinnacle of rock(peak 22, 378 on the map). At the foot of this peak our predecessorshad set up their Camp XI; and thence, on July 10th, 1902, Wesselyand Guillarmod had tried to gain the snowy shoulder, in the hope offinding a route to K- along the broken and slender north-eastern ridge. (9221) R 4 264 Chapter XV. Guil